The West Baden Springs Hotel

The West Baden Springs Hotel, and the French Lick Springs Hotel, happen to be among the most photogenic buildings I have ever visited. Even in the stark, mid-winter cold of southern Indiana, the architecture seemed to glimmer and glow with a classic, almost timeless vitality. While dining under the hotel’s legendary dome, I remarked to my charming companion that I could clearly imagine visitors (and residents), in period dress from the early 20th century onward, much like us: dining, lounging, walking the halls, or enjoying the natural daylight from the extraordinary glass dome of the atrium.

For fans of architectural and social history, the story of the West Baden Springs Hotel will easily hold your attention. Any natural curiosity about the architecture is augmented by the proud display of historic photos of the building in esteemed use by countless guests. Artifacts and memorabilia from the hotel’s earliest days through the recent efforts for its historic preservation, adorn the walls and cabinets of the parlors and shops. But even this ample evidence of the hotel’s colorful longevity can only hint at the elegant intrigue the hotel must have hosted.  At one time the “getaway” of choice for Al Capone (because of its proximity to Chicago), if the walls could speak, a remarkable story I’m sure they would tell.  Read the history of the West Baden Springs Hotel here.

Having visited in January, I can only wonder what the resorts must look like in the spring, when the trees have filled out, and the fountains once again flow. I do intend to find out one day, but until then here are some photos I took of the beautiful West Baden — the stunning French Lick Hotel will follow in a few days.

Click on the photos to see them full-size.

West Baden Springs Hotel -- Historic Stairway Entrance

A Latin saying on the tile mosaic at the entrance translates in multiple ways, but generally means, 'Virtue through Adversity' or 'Strength through Struggle'

The magnificent dome -- 100 feet high and 200 feet across, rising six stories.

Hotel rooms ring the interior of the atrium.

Lavish mosaics cover the floors.

This photo of the interior elevation gives a better sense of how high the dome rises.

Some of the more ornate architectural details of the original hotel were carefully covered up by the Jesuits while the building was in use as a seminary. Their desire to tone down the opulent, Beaux arts style of the hotel -- by covering up its more lavish flourishes -- may have, in fact, saved those architectural details from irreparable deterioration in the latter part of the century.

The hotel lobby, where the check-in desk and concierge are located, is equally stunning, with a radiating light fixture echoing the main atrium.

The famous ceramic fireplace

The elegant dining room often hosts Sunday brunch.. I'd love to dine there someday...

Detail of a transom window, topping french doors which lead to the veranda.

Artifacts from the hotel's early days

Bottled water from the area's mineral springs was branded 'Plutowater,' and was sold as a curative. The natural springs were the primary reason early guests stayed at the West Baden and French Lick.

Looking out from a parlor onto the front veranda.

The January cold keeps the veranda silent and serene.

Staircase, leading to the gardens.

Formal elegance in the quiet gardens

Looking toward the old bowling and billiards building. Some parts of the brick walkway were covered in ice.

Classical engraving for the bowling and billiards pavilion.

Classical gazebo, covering the mineral springs well.

Looking back toward the majestic hotel from the far end of the garden

Christmas Past

Just a few photos from this past Christmas season… and a poem at the end.

After Midnight, with light and incense, Grace Cathedral, San Francisco, CA

Snowman Ornament on a White Tree

My Mom's Christmas Village

Vintage Angel Ornament

Christmas Village, the Town Square

Saint Ignatius Church - Winter Night

Vintage Elf Ornament

Christmas Village - Snow Fight

Sutro Tower in the Winter Clouds

“The Action of Snowfall”

Act on your life like
a billion-billion snowflakes.
You will see
in time,
garlands of crystalline acts –
All unique –
adorning those same branches where
green leaves shivered
yellow and dropped by the weight
of mortality.

One by one, let
each act
loose,
To wander in the crisp breeze
of your yearning soul –
A meandering harmony of many acts,
a carol aloft
on life’s unpredictable
breath.

Make all life yuletide:
Quiet evenings
with tea,
by fires, beside love.
Let Blitzen, herself, deliver
your needs
with a bell.

Finally, Traveler,
Let every soft-diamond act
twinkle brilliance
as it descends –
Until your own head is
wreathed in acts
you’ve let loose in love,
only to return to you:

This Crown –
Priceless, transient jewels,
is your life’s reward.